White Gates - CAMRA's Manchester outpost

 
BrewBritannia: the strange rebirth of British beer, Boak & Bailey. Click to Look Inside. 

Those with a keen interest in beer, pubs and history thereof, may be aware of the eagerly-awaited book from beer bloggers Boak & Bailey, BrewBritannia: the strange rebirth of British beer.  It's out on 19th June, but it will be available from them at the Port Street Beer House on Sunday 18th May from 2pm.

Manchester's role in the rebirth of British beer is not to be understated, so to start with here's a piece from Boak & Bailey on the White Gates Inn.  This little Sam Smiths boozer on Manchester Road, Hyde, is named after the entrance gates to Hyde Hall, and back in the mid-'70s became the first official CAMRA pub in the north (after the Old Fox in Bristol).

White Gates, Manchester Road, Hyde. (c) Dave Lambert at flickr with permission [1].

About the authors

Boak & Bailey write a beer blog at boakandbailey.com. Their book, BrewBritannia: the strange rebirth of British beer, is due out in June 2014.

* * * * * 

In 1974, CAMRA's chief 'thinker' Christopher Hutt, author of the polemical paperback The Death of the English Pub, set up a member-funded pub chain known as CAMRAIL - CAMRA Real Ale Investments Limited. It caused conflict within the Campaign but, nonetheless, for a few years, pubs demonstrating the CAMRA ideal operated across England, including in Manchester.

White Gates, Manchester Road, 1976. (c) Alan Moores at flickr with permission [2].

CAMRAIL purchased The White Gates in Hyde for £16,000 (they were the only bidder) and it became the second in the small chain, its opening being announced in What's Brewing in March 1975. CAMRA's appointed managers, Frank and Joyce Eastwood, took on a solidly Victorian pub that had been run for years by one Samuel Oldham. They inherited his choice of draught beers - Tetley's Mild, and bitters from Younger and Boddington. Neil Kellett of CAMRA said at the time:

"We plan to preserve the traditional atmosphere and enhance it with a wide range of real draught beer and straightforward but tasty food. Our first priority will be to attend to a number of urgent structural repairs to the building."

White Gatesm Manchester Road. (c) CAMRA 1979 Good Beer Guide.

Before long, the White Gates became the best place to try beer from the region's own contribution to the slowly growing number of new 'real ale' breweries, Pollard's of Stockport.

CAMRAIL, in general, seems to have been a balancing act between, on the one hand, preservation of buildings and pub traditions, and, on the other, appealing to relatively well-off CAMRA members with an interest in novelty.

Throughout 1975, CAMRAIL used cash invested by CAMRA members to expand the building, at a cost of £40,000. With similar rebuilding and renovation going on at pubs in Bristol, Cambridge and Leeds, the company made a loss in its first full year of trading, causing investors to grumble.

In the 1978 Good Beer Guide, the description of the White Gates suggests that it had become the kind of 'real ale pub' we would recognise today, selling cult out of town favourites such as Theakston's:

White Gates, Manchester Road. (c) 1978 CAMRA Good Beer Guide entry.

The following year, Frank and Joyce Eastwood decided to retire, which gave Hutt the opportunity to assess the situation. Manchester was far from being a 'real ale desert' and so it was decided to sell the White Gates with a view to investing the proceeds in a new CAMRAIL pub in Watney's-dominated Northampton.

Sources

'Doors Open at White Gates', What's Brewing, March 1975.

'Pubs that Convert the Fizz Drinkers', What's Brewing, December 1976.

'Camrail open one pub - and close another', What's Brewing, July 1979.

Good Beer Guides 1975-1980.

History of Stockport Breweries, Mike Ogden, Neil Richardson, 1987

Interviews with Christopher Hutt, Terry Pattinson and others.

White Gates, Manchester Road. (c) Gerald England at geograph (Creative Commons).

White Gates, Manchester Road, 2011. (c) Ian S under Creative Commons [3].

White Gates & Wellington, 2009. (c) Gerald England at geograph (Creative Commons).

1. www.flickr.com/photos/davel59/5698880180.
2. www.flickr.com/photos/saint_asaph_art/2087307048.

2. http://hydedaily.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/inside-white-gates-inn.html.

Guest Pub - Bill O'Jacks, Oldham

The Mysterious Bill O’Jacks Murders

The year is 1832. The place is Saddleworth Moor, overlooking the conurbation of Oldham, Manchester. Saddleworth is, of course, more closely remembered for the horrific and sadistic Moors Murders, the memory of which lingers on to this day. However, not many people know the tale of another, equally disturbing case that took place one hundred and thirty years previously in a well frequented, yet remote local pub called The Bill O’Jacks.

The landlord of the pub was one William Bradbury who was (unbelievably for the time) eighty four years of age. Let us not forget this was a time when life expectancy in Cottonopolis was just eighteen for the average adult male. Bradbury’s son was the local Gamekeeper, his name was Thomas and he was forty six. It was alleged that Thomas was of ill temper and as a result quite unpopular with the local community. The Bill O’Jacks wasn’t the pub’s proper name – locally it was known as The Moorcock Inn, the alternative name comes about from a tradition in which a place was nicknamed according to father of the owner. Thus the owner of the pub was William and his father must have been called Jack, so Bill, son of Jack equals Bill O’Jack.

 

Bill O'Jacks, Saddleworth, Oldham (c) Greenfield Gone By.

What happened?

On the evening of April 2^nd, 1832 a violent struggle occurred within the walls of the pub. Reports that followed on later suggested that there was complete and utter carnage at the scene, with blood and vile gory matter splattered all over the walls and furniture of the interior.

William, the father had been discovered lying in his bed with his face beaten in. Thomas, the son was found lying downstairs with such severe injuries to his head and body he was virtually unrecognisable – whoever had killed him must have been of mighty strength, for Thomas stood at over six feet tall and was heavily built in stature.

Before he finally expired William was heard to utter the phrase “Patts” or “Platts”. Much debate surrounded what this could have meant at the time. Some people thought “Patts” might have referred to Irish Navvies who were working in the area and had perhaps behaved in a threatening way towards the two men. “Platts” may have been in reference to Gypsies who were frequenting the area and had had a run in with Thomas over access to his land. This was a time before such things as cheap landlord insurance existed, so matters of money and tenancy were never easily resolved and usually ended up in fisticuffs.

Despite an inquest and lots of evidence being heard from locals the murders were never solved and no-one ever brought to account. The only other possible suspect in the case was another person that Thomas had got into an argument with, a local poacher who was due to stand trial at Pontefract Court. He’d challenged Thomas and allegedly told him there was no way he would be brave enough to stand trial against him. The murders had happened the day before the trial was about to take place.  However, the case against the poacher was simply not strong enough to warrant either an arrest or a detention and since no other leads were discovered the mystery, to this day, remains completely unsolved. It still intrigues locals to the area and is a story that has passed down through generations of people who live in and around Saddleworth, this most notorious moorland area of Manchester.

 Bill O'Jacks, Saddleworth, Oldham. (c) Ashley Jackson. 

What happened to the pub?

It was eventually demolished to make way for a plantation around a hundred years later in 1937. It must have been very off putting for the locals to go in carousing after such a gruesome event taking place there – and quite amazing it continued for so long after the deaths. Many people go to visit the site and indeed where the bodies are buried in Saddleworth Church Yard, the grave is still in excellent condition and the inscription on the tomb can be read very clearly indeed (as you can see from the picture). As folklore had it at the time, songs and poems were written about the crime as well, which told the story contemporaneously and still manage to breathe much life into this aged mystery:

"Whoever did this horrid deed, their blackened souls did save

And took their morbid secret with them to the grave

So the mystery still lives on and no-one has a clue

To what happened on that April night in eighteen hundred and thirty two"

(c) Lowri Welsch

Guest Pub - Broadway Inn, Ordsall

Broadway Inn. (c) John Bulmer at How to be a Retronaut

This fantastic photo by John Bulmer was featured on the the How to be a Retronaut site and also on the blog, Unpopular.  In Alistair's own words:

This shot from 1977 pictures an England from my own childhood.  Not that I grew up in an environment anything like the Manchester in the photograph, but still, it gives some context to times that we all too often allow to be cloaked in rose-tinted nostalgia.  I'm not sure that we were particularly aware of this kind of Britain in 1977, despite John Bulmer's work for the Sunday Times.  Perhaps I was just far too young to notice it of course, but nevertheless it remains true, surely, that this kind of reality is not one widely pedalled in the nostalgia business.  Even ‘Life On Mars’ and ‘Control struggled to truly capture this kind of strange wasteland.  What images will people look back on as capturing some essence of 2010?  And will those images evoke a world as alien as these two do?

Broadway Inn, Joseph Holts house. (c) John Bulmer at How to be a Retronaut

There is no other clue as to the Broadway Inn's location other than the clearances that are going on around it and the fact it's a Joseph Holt house.  I suspect that the Broadway Inn was in Orsdall, Salford, and in common with council policy, was originally spared demolition whilst the terraced houses around it were demolished in the '60s and '70s.  It didn't last that long though, as it appears that a new Broadway Inn was built in its place, on or near the site of the original, possibly as part of the redevelopment which would eventually become Salford Quays.  The fact that today's Broadway Inn is modern and a Holt's house is the only real evidence for this conclusion, so if anyone can clear this one up, please let us know.

Broadway Inn, Broadway, Ordsall. (c) Salford_66 at flickr.


UPDATE:


The Broadway Inn was originally on the corner of Broadway and West Clowes Street having opened in 1878.  First licensee was Moses Bayley and the next few included Richard Gibson and William Whiteley.  It became a Holt's house in 1886 and the brewery extended it to include the house next door a couple of years later.  Seen below in the 1970s, the Clowes Hotel can been seen in the background on Trafford Road.

Broadway Inn, Broadway, Ordsall, 1970s. (c) Neil Richardson [1].

The tenant now was Harry Nichols who kept the Broadway Inn until the 1940s, followed by George Bramley and John Hayes in the '50s and Fred McCormick in the '60s.  The location on the corner of Broadway and West Clowes Street is confirmed in the below snap from the late Neil Richardson's book (pub number 163 being the Clowes Hotel, now gone).  As we suspected, all the terraced houses on Broadway were demolished in the 1970s and on 5th December 1980, Holt's opened the new Broadway Inn on the same site [1]

Former (and present) location of Broadway Inn, Broadway, Ordsall. (c) Neil Richardson [1].

1. Salford Pubs Part Two: Including Islington, Ordsall Lane and Ordsall, Oldfield road, Regent Road and Broughton, Neil Richardson (2003).

Guest Pub - Waggon & Horses, Sale

Waggon & Horses, Cross Street, Sale. (c) Pub Curmudgeon at Closed Pubs.

This is a first for us, a guest closed pub.  The Waggon & Horses is a forlorn looking derelict pub on Cross Street, Sale, the A56 from Altricham to Manchester.  It is only a few yards up the road from our favourite, the Volunteer.  Thanks to a recent visit from the intrepid explorer, x1franpl* at the marvellous 28dayslater*, we can see the inside of this sorry old boozer. 

Waggon & Horses, Sale, 2010. (c) x1franpl at 28dayslater.

Anyone fancy a game of pool?

Waggon & Horses, Sale, 2010. (c) x1franpl at 28dayslater.

The walls are adorned in these weird and wonderful chalk drawings; this one celebrates a couple of back-in-the-day ales, Websters and Theakstons:

Waggon & Horses, Sale, 2010. (c) x1franpl at 28dayslater.

On the same thread on 28dayslater, Lurkenator* supplies us with some brilliant old photos of the Waggon & Horses in happier times.  Firstly, over a century ago showing the Chester Road in all its Victorian splendour (in contrast to the disgraceful eyesore that the run down shops and tattoo parlours of Cross Street offer today).

Waggon & Horses, Sale, 1900. (c) Lurkenator at 28dayslater.

The Waggon & Horses was a Wilsons house in the 1970s:


Waggon & Horses, Sale, 1977. (c) Lurkenator at 28dayslater.

Here's the landlord Stan pulling a pint of Wilsons:


Stan in the Waggon & Horses, Sale, 1977. (c) Lurkenator at 28dayslater.

By 1982 the Waggon & Horses was a freehouse, "Purveyors of fine Cask Conditioned Beer" as the sign proudly states:

Waggon & Horses, Sale, 1982. (c) Lurkenator at 28dayslater.

Having been been shut now for about a decade, the pub has been allowed to rot and is now clearly ruined beyond repair.  Shame on its owners for letting it deteriorate like this, but someone really needs to put it out of its misery.  RIP the Waggon & Horses.

* If there is an issue with the images being hosted here, please comment or drop us a line!

Guest Pub - Brovaria, Stary Rynek, Poznań

Brovaria, Stary Rynek, Poznań. (c) Pubs of Manchester / ticktock.

The most recent stage of our ongoing tour of Europe took us to Poznań, Poland.  Upon leaving the match we faced an unappealing schlep to the old market square through a city whose suburbs looked to us as being astonishingly devoid of watering holes for the thirsty traveller.  Fortunately we managed to flag down a taxi and after a few twists and turns to avoid the horrendous traffic we arrived at our destination.

Brovaria, Stary Rynek, Poznań. (c) Pubs of Manchester / ticktock.

Brovaria is a rather upmarket and very busy brew pub right on the main square, Stary Rynek.  Location and status are reflected in the prices and we settled on the Brovaria Miodowe.  At 9 złoty (a little over £2 at current exchange rates) for a ‘Maximillian’ (about a pint) it was still hardly breaking the bank.  We settled in the smaller ground floor bar area and enjoyed several drinks and conversation with the friendly locals.  The pride and passion that the Lech supporters showed during the match was mirrored by the generosity and graciousness they showed to the visiting Mancunians in here.

Brovaria, Stary Rynek, Poznań. (c) Pubs of Manchester / ticktock.

The Miodowe (honey) beer is brewed on the premises in the establishment’s own microbrewery with a small selection of other beers.  The brewing vats themselves are a feature of the large upstairs bar area.  Modern, bright and shiny, they are constructed so as to avoid producing the all pervading smell of the brewer’s craft that can sometimes detract from a trip to such a place.  Although the equipment is modern, the techniques used to brew the nectar are ancient.  The beer is naturally clouded, has flavour and body and is a proper ale, far removed from the ‘fizzy lager’ served up in many British and continental pubs.

Brovaria, Stary Rynek, Poznań. (c) Pubs of Manchester / ticktock.

The pub has a restaurant area with food at very reasonable prices but as this was completely separate it did not interfere with the drinking experience.  The address dates back to the 15th Century but the current building was completed as late as 1955 having been rebuilt after the war with respect to history and architectural traditions with Brovaria opening its doors in 2004.

Brovaria, Stary Rynek, Poznań. (c) Pubs of Manchester / ticktock.

www.pauldonlan.co.cc. 

Guest Pub - Wenlock Arms, London

Wenlock Arms, Wenlock Road, Hoxton, London. (c) fancyapint.

A new one for us as we've never been in here (though must have been close during our Angel-to-Highbury pub crawl last May) but when news reached us of the Wenlock Arm's impending demise it brought to mind our very own Crown & Cushion. Both pubs are off the beaten track, but while the Crown & Cushion is a big old city pub run by a family brewer, the Wenlock is a small, single-roomed, backstreet local's boozer specialising in up to 10 ever-changing real ales.

Wenlock Arms bar. (c) gettothepub.

The interior remains resolutely pre-war, although the old boys and cockney knees-up regulars are joined by student, hip locals and real ale boffins giving the place a relaxed atmosphere. The Wenlock can be traced back to 1836 (so not quite as old as the Crown & Cushion) as the Wenlock brewery tap, and although it was shut for a period, it reopened in 1994 as a real ale haven. Since then it has won several awards and is North London CAMRA's pub of the region. Sadly the rumours that it is to close in October-November and be demolished for redevelopment of the area appear to be true. See the CAMRA discussion and campaign blog for full details.

Wenlock Arms interior (c) Marianthi Makra / gettothepub.

Unlike the with Crown & Cushion, which may be lost without much of a whimper, the residents of Hoxton, Shoreditch and Islington are putting up a fight by challenging the local council and redevelopers. The next few months will be interesting to follow in the campaign to save one of London's classic ale pubs. Good luck...

CAMRA discussion: http://forum.camra.org.uk.

Blog: http://savethewenlock.blogspot.com.

Guest Pubs - Sheffield, The Valley of Beer

For a change, we thought we would head to the famous Sheffield Valley of Beer, with a list of pubs to visit and one day to do it. Unlike the infamous beer tickers, our rules state that at least one pint must be consumed, no halves here. So off we went on the early train to Sheffield, arriving about 11.30 and a brisk 15 minute walk brought us to our first pub.

Harlequin

Just outside of Sheffield City centre, past the old Whitbread Exchange Brewery and across the river is The Harlequin and the start of our trail. This pub is pretty much in the middle of nowhere, but was still pretty busy when we arrived at 11.45 despite only opening at 11.30. With approximately 10 different real beers on, and probably countless more underneath in the cellar, this was an excellent starting point. A small beer garden at the rear completed a very nice first trip and an excellent early morning pale ale was taken.

Riverside

Out of the Harlequin, turn right and over the lights and we come to the Riverside. This is one of those type of places that looks like it is still being decorated, where sparse is the acceptable minimum requirement. It does however have a lovely beer garden overlooking the (fairly dirty looking) river, and is a nice place to while away a couple of hours, however we were on a schedule, so just the one pint (excellent beer) it was and we moved on.

Shakespeare

Just down the road and hidden away from the main road, is a pub which isn't usually on the beer trail, but we thought we'd try one in there anyway. We soon found out why its not on the trail, as corrugated iron sheeting was found covering all doors and windows and has clearly been shut for sometime. The "For Sale" sign above the door indicated that the building had been sold though, so we'll revisit it at a later time to see if its been returned to its former glory and become a pub again (don't hold your breath)

Kelham Island Tavern

Not to be deterred by the matter of a closed pub, its straight back across the road and into the Kelham, this being the CAMRA nationwide pub of the year for 2010. It didn't disappoint. With an excellent selection of ales, nice but simple food, and superb paved area at the back for sitting, you can see why this pub is so popular. Its also next to the Kelham Island Brewery and you really have to marvel at the foresight of the landlord of the premises to see what you could do with a run down pub in a mainly industrial area. A quick pint of excellent stouty Mild later and once again we were on our way.

Fat Cat

Two minutes round the corner, and its in to Fat Cat. Another real ale emporium. Huge selection of beers, cosy little multi roomed pub and a good sized beer garden and sun trap. Its amazing to think that anywhere could have so many quality pubs in one area. This is also a must visit place if you are in the area, and is almost as good as the Kelham.

Milestone

A quick wander down the street, to what appeared to be more of a restaurant than a pub, but it served beer, so we thought we'd give it a go. The bar manager was welcoming, but if I'm honest, this place was the letdown of the day. Two different real ales on, one served too cold, the other too warm. Neither particularly well kept and a bit lifeless. A quick look at the menu and specials board, indicated what we feared that we were in fact in a swanky gastro pub rather real beer establishment (though it was the Blue Bell, a proper pub back in the day), so it was sup up and sod off time. Also the dearest pint of the day at £3. As we moved on we noticed this huge old masonry:

Wellington

Two minutes up the road and normal service was resumed, as we turned into the house come pub that is the Wellington. Lovely little pub, excellent selection of beers in again a cosy little roomed pub with statutory weirdy beardy at the bar. Another fine little beer garden (Sheffield really have got this sussed) and a couple of pints were consumed as we were ahead of schedule at this point. Knowledgeable barman and the cheapest pint of the day at £1.90 for the wonderful Little Ale Cart Kenilworth (4.0%), completed a fine visit for this exemplary little pub.

University Arms

Next up was our only real proper walk for the day as we made the half mile trek up hill to the University Arms. Right on the edge of studentville, this imposing looking building was remarkably quiet when we got there, but was still welcoming enough. Once again as always a decent selection of real ales was to be found, and the grassed gardens out back completed an excellent boozer. Whether it would be quite as nice rammed with students and when it was wet and miserable outside is debatable but for one day and a couple of pints it was more than adequate.

Bath Hotel

Back across the road and towards the campus, we come across another little hidden gem that was the Bath Hotel. Very much an old mans pub I suspect, the beer was top notch and the landlord was a friendly chap. Near to the nearby West Street, with its Brannigans, Wetherspoons, Walkabouts and similar hell holes, this was a little oasis in a sea of shite. Again, couple of excellent pints before we started the downhill journey home.

Washington

Almost on the homeward run now, and we stop at the rocking"music pub" that is the Washington. Only, i don't think there was any music on and it was anything but rocking. There was however real ale which surprised us, and again a good beer garden. The beer was excellent, lost a few quid on the quiz machine (our reaction times were beginning to slow by now) and an enjoyable half hour was spent before staggering down the hill to the Devonshire Cat.

Devonshire Cat

We had high hopes of this place and had heard great things, but alas it didn't measure up in reality. Yes, the beer selection was excellent, the barman seemed to know what he was on about, and it aint too far from the station, but something was just not quite right. For starters it was too bright and light, despite being dusk time, which made you feel more like you were in a Table Table type restaurant pub place, and the big open pub with no booths or alcoves and tables everywhere had more of a Wetherspoons feel to it. Finally the two chairs and table in the outside area just weren't enough. Shame really, because the beer selection as I say was excellent. Maybe if we do the crawl the other way round next time, it might be better when its quieter, and it doesn't have quite the canteen feel to it.

Rutland Arms

With our senses dulling by the minute, and our walking becoming more laboured, we decide to discard the Rutland and walk a different way to the train station, only to walk round a corner and come across it, lost as we were in our addled state. As we're here now, it'd be rude not to go in, and again a decent little pub with quality beer is found. The first proper food of the day is now consumed with pickled eggs with Tabasco sauce only adding to the experience. A quick few pints later (and piece of chocolate cake for some reason ) and its off to the last of our pubs, The Station Taps.

Station Taps

Final pub of the day and what an excellent addition to Sheffield station. Built on the side is a huge pub with loads of real ale on. Situated so close, you can virtually booze right up until a couple of minutes before your train. A big alfresco drinking area to the front completes the picture of an excellent start or finish of the day pub. And finally special mention must be made of the two pint boxes of beer you can buy for your train journey home, which in our case are just enough for the 1 hour journey!

Guest Pub - Ye Olde Three Tuns, Thirsk

Ye Olde Three Tuns, Finkle Street, Thirsk. (c) beerintheevening.

Thirsk is a lovely little market town in North Yorkshire, with its own market square and quaint little flat racing racecourse. It's also on the way to the North East football grounds and this was how we first came across the town. There are many pubs around the square and just off it, but the pub we feature today is Ye Olde Three Tuns, a personal favourite of ours. We have been visiting this pub for approximately 10 years (we watched the Rugby World Cup Final on one particular early morning 2003 session here), and have always received a warm welcome from the landlord and landlady, Wilson and Irene. Wilson is a retired RUC Officer and would gladly show you his medals and memorabilia should you ask. Irene is a tough, no-nonsense landlady who runs a tight ship. Sadly, Wilson has been ill for some time now and at our last vist last year, was not able to meet us, and regretably may not be able to again.

Ye Olde Three Tuns, Finkle Street flooded. (c) thirsk.

The pub itself is a stones throw from the nearby Cod Beck, a tributary of the River Swale and has been known to flood when the river bursts its banks as you can see from the pictures above and below. Ye Olde Three Tuns is a little Tetley's house with a real fire in the centre of the room, a couple of one armed bandits/quiz machines, and two pool tables in a separate upstairs pool room (with jukebox). Ale is provided by way of Tetley Cask bitter and a fine pint it is too. It used to do food, although I think it may be a limited menu these days. Breakfast and an early start can be arranged upon request. If you make your way to this town, you will usually be afforded a warm welcome at most of the hostelries, but be sure to search this one out, down the side of the road that the Wetherspoons is on, and I'm sure you'll love it as much as we do!

Ye Olde Three Tuns flooded on Finkle Street, 1930 and 2000. (c) thirskmuseum.